The European Championships are supposed to be an event for everyone. But is that true?
As a native of Munich, I want to experience as much as possible of the European Championships in my hometown. Many events are offered free of charge, some are only accessible with a ticket. As a student, however, these are simply too expensive for me. I visited all the venues and tested where the visit was worthwhile even without a ticket.
The first part of my report is about the surrounding area, i.e. all the locations outside the Olympic Park.
My reportage starts at the Königsplatz. Dust flies into my eyes again and again as I look up. Up to the climber, who is currently hanging over the ledge and letting his arms dangle before reaching into the small bag with the magnesium powder again. In the sunlight, you can see the remnants trickling off his hand and slowly being carried across the audience with the wind. While taking photos, I notice that the cell phone screen is also covered with a thin layer of powder. The stuff is really everywhere.
It feels like I'm in the middle of it, and somehow I am. Friday afternoon, right at Königsplatz, at the men's lead qualification. Again and again I look at the other climbing wall, where the British women are trying to qualify for bouldering. The top holds look like Smarties that are way too big, cut in half and drilled into the wall. Some of them are so small and flat that the athletes have to cling to them with their nails. For this very reason, every move and every step is commented on with applause.
For the fact that there is free entry for the bouldering and lead qualifications, I would have expected a bigger crowd. Through the entrance, I come to a large standing area that stretches from the climbing walls to the spectator stand. Some guests sit on the ground on blankets and watch the action from a distance, others watch the spectacle directly in front of the walls. Nevertheless, there is still a lot of space everywhere. Perhaps it is also due to the heat, because the entire area is covered by the sun. Next to me is a group that must have been there for a while, because each of them has a strong sunburn.
For over two hours I watch as the climbers, armed with magnesium and rope, scale the wall. Only a few make it all the way to the top hold. Nevertheless, every climb is at least as exciting as the one before. The atmosphere in the audience is outstanding. The athletes receive applause for every obstacle they overcome, and the crowd goes wild as they approach the final meters. The athletes' colleagues are also cheering from below among the spectators. Sometimes I recognize them by their jerseys or the foreign-language shouts, but mostly by their white hands or backpacks, which are smeared white from the magnesium.
In the meantime, I have made a head covering out of my jacket, because it is simply too hot. With time I also notice the long standing in the legs. But it is just too exciting to leave earlier. So I get to see up-and-coming talents, European and world climbing champions up close until the very end.
After the qualification has ended, my way leads me out of the climbing world, into the shady little park behind the Glyptothek. There, as part of "The Roofs" festival, the Multicolour Roof has been erected - a good place to go if you want to cool off after the day's persistent heat. While on one side there is a beautiful beer garden under huge chestnut trees, on the other side there are tents set up where free workshops are given all day. From painting to yoga, creative types and free spirits can find a little downtime here.
Beach volleyball can also be watched from Königsplatz. At the group games there is partly free admission according to the "first come first served" principle. Unfortunately, I arrive too late and can't secure a seat inside. The center court looks like a blue fortress, with spectator stands rising up on each side. From outside, I have no chance to see what is happening inside. The only way I can tell if it's a good or bad move is by the reactions of the spectators. But I can't find out which team has the upper hand. I have more luck with the other three courts. They are located directly next to and behind the Glyptothek. On their marble steps, I have a clear view of the clay courts next to the center court and can watch the action. I can observe the inside of the other court through the transparent, dark blue tarpaulins stretched along the fences. Since many games are played at the same time, I often change my location to watch several games at the same time. That way, even without a ticket, I get to see the highlights of all the games.
From Königsplatz, you can take the U2 subway directly to Messe München. There all competitions around track cycling take place. After a much too long day, I notice already in the subway that my legs are sluggish and don't really want to move today. Fortunately I don't have to go far, it's right in the exhibition center. Well, at least that's what I thought. Arrived at the main entrance of the fair, I see first: nothing. No trace of a track cycling event. A signpost sends me a much too long way further past the fair building. After several minutes of heavy steps, a volunteer, with a broad grin, comes towards me on a golf cart. He looks like he's having a lot of fun racing around in that little cart. How I would love to sit in this cart now. The rest of the walk to the event is more dreary than dreary. Everything is gray, only concrete and the sun has also disappeared behind the dark clouds.
When I finally arrive in front of the track cycling hall, I hear the dull clapping of the audience and the voice of the moderator echoing through the interior of the building. A poster for ticket prices is stuck on the door. "Sold Out" has been taped above it in big red letters. Apparently the hall is full, but unfortunately I can't see any of it from the outside.
I slowly realize that I have walked all this way for nothing and now have to go back. After I turn to leave, I see the volunteer in his golf cart. He comes rolling up to the entrance and invites one of his colleagues into the car. There are six seats and only two of them are occupied. Wouldn't it be a waste if he drove off with a half-empty cart? Since there is no one left standing in front of the entrance, I ask without further ado if I can have a ride. Sure, get in," he answers. Overjoyed, I jump onto one of the empty seats and make myself wide on the seat. "Pretty busy, they bought all the tickets empty today" the two of them chat briefly during the ride. On the way to the subway station we pick up another couple who have been in the hall all day and also look pretty tired. He drives us right in front of the escalator that goes down the platform - so that we really don't have to walk an inch too much. If he could, he probably would have dropped us off right in the subway.
The men in the street bike race have to cover more distance than my tedious meters to the Messe München. When they cross the finish line at Odeonsplatz, they will have covered more than 200 kilometers. I line up first on a section in the city center. There are a lot of people around me, all eagerly waiting for the cyclists to pass. Close together we stand pressed against the fence. All the streets are empty. No cars, no pedestrians meandering through the stationary traffic, and no motorcycles in sight.
I take a quick look at the clock. Actually, they should be passing by here any minute now. Slowly the crowd becomes restless. Suddenly, the sound of a distant engine and the rising cheers of the spectators can be heard from far away. The cheers come closer and closer and then it's time. The first two cyclists, followed by a motorcycle, rush past us. The whole thing happens so fast that I don't really realize it. Shortly after, I hear the next cheer and spot the next bunch of riders whizzing past me.
After that, I head straight for Odeonsplatz, because I want to be there in time to see the finish. The specially erected grandstand at Odeonsplatz seems to be pretty full, but I still manage to get myself a seat in the first rows. It is insanely loud here. The temperature ensures a high alcohol consumption and thus a boisterous mood. In the livestream on my cell phone, I watch as the cyclists cycle through the city center past all the sights and slowly get closer and closer to the finish. Shortly before the finish, the mood of the crowd reaches its peak. Everyone claps and celebrates the arrival of the winner, but also the following riders are carried through the finish line with due applause and celebrated.
Relatively far away from the city center is the Rudi-Sedlmayer-Halle. Since my way to work takes me past it anyway, I spontaneously pay it a visit. This is where the table tennis competitions are held and I was hoping that maybe there was something to watch from the outside. Apparently I didn't learn anything from the other events, because similar to track cycling, you can't see anything from the outside. The only thing that stands out is the huge table tennis ball dangling in the wind from a crane. But that's it for table tennis.
On the other hand, the Olympic regatta facility in Oberschleissheim has a vacation feeling. Next to the course is the Golden Beach Roof, complete with sandy beach and hammocks. You can also watch the rowing and canoe racing without a ticket, because you can get to the gravel path directly above the course via a staircase. From here I can't see as well as from the grandstand, but I can sit comfortably on the grass and enjoy the spectacle in the sun. On the other side of the water, some visitors have brought blankets with them and are watching the races in a very relaxed way. If I need a little cooling down, I get a cool drink, sit down in the shade and put my feet in the sand.
Alternatively, I lie down in one of the set-up hammocks and look up at the cloudless, blue sky. It feels good to watch the chestnut leaves dance in the wind above me as I sway gently.
Click here for part two of the report.
Text: Laura Kimpfbeck
Photos: Laura Kimpfbeck & Simon Sandig